When I first watched the movie Withnail and I… I don’t remember when that was exactly, but several years ago… it was with great anticipation. I’d heard it quoted many times and people had mentioned it as a great film, but when I saw it for the first time I was a little underwhelmed. It was OK, but I didn’t really understand the fuss about it. The next time I watched it I enjoyed it more, and the third time I began to understand why people liked it. But then something strange happened the next time I watched it; I couldn’t make it all the way through and ended up switching it off. Perhaps I just wasn’t in the mood that time, but I started to think that maybe I actually don’t like it and I’d been trying too hard to enjoy it previously? Anyway, I didn’t watch it again for a few years, but the next time I did… wow! I finally “got” it. I’ve watched it several times since and it just keeps getting better.
So when I booked an AirBnB apartment for a long weekend in the Lake District and included in the information was that the phone box right at the end of the access road had appeared in a scene in the movie, I started looking at where else they may have filmed locally and found that most of the Lake District scenes were within a few miles of where I was staying, so I began planning to visit as many as possible.
Where it all began – just a few steps away from the apartment was the phone box from which Withnail calls his agent in London.
Following on from that call, they walk away from the phone box and up this road, while Withnail complains about “those Russian plays”.
After meeting the poacher and being told that he needs “working on”, Withnail rages and exclaims that he’ll “show the lot of you. I’m gonna be a STAR!!” He does so overlooking Haweswater reservoir from a point near, but not exactly, here.
Later in the day I took a walk on the opposite side of the reservoir, to visit and photograph the waterfalls known as ‘The Forces’.
The following day I went in search of another ‘Withnail’ location. I walked from the apartment and along the Lowther river, which I had to cross on this footbridge. A warning sign on the bridge said that it would only safely support two people, so I was a little bit concerned about crossing it. Despite it worryingly bouncing up and down as I walked, and being sure it would collapse with me half way across it, I made it safely to the other side.
After a short trek across some muddy fields, I reached the gate that Withnail failed to close, letting the bull through onto this path.
Next day and another trip to photograph a waterfall, this one being Thornthwaite Force.
My second visit to Castlerigg Stone Circle, I was fortunate in that there was nobody else there for a short while after I arrived. I was able to wander round taking photos, enjoying the scenery and drinking in the atmosphere.
The impressive Aira Force and a hike to the summit of Gowbarrow Fell followed, which allowed some nice views over Ullswater on the return leg.
Before returning home on the last day of my trip, I made a highly-anticipated pilgrimage to Withnail and Marwood’s country escape, known in real life as Sleddale Hall, but better known as ‘Crow Crag’. Along the way I visited the bridge where the two characters attempt to catch some fish using a shotgun…
Then shortly after, I arrived at ‘Crow Crag’ itself. It’s privately owned, so I felt uneasy walking around the house, although there didn’t appear to be anybody there.
I spent a little while taking it all in, then headed back to the car for the drive back home and back to reality. It was a thoroughly enjoyable trip, with many great memories made.